Even the most secluded cove on Ibiza has its off days. A northerly wind can turn the calm water at Cala Mastella choppy, and a summer storm can make the gravel tracks to the quieter beaches muddy and slow. Locals barely notice. Visitors with only a week on the island often feel they have lost a day. They have not, as long as they shift the plan from sand to town.
Start in Dalt Vila before the light goes
The walled old town of Ibiza is at its best in the late afternoon, when the stone turns warm and the crowds thin out. Walk up through the gates to the cathedral terrace and look back over the harbour; on a clear evening you can see across to Formentera. The steep lanes are full of small galleries and wine bars, and a slow walk here is the perfect antidote to a day without swimming.
Dinner the island way
Skip the beach-club menus and look for places serving bullit de peix, the fish stew followed by arroz a banda cooked in the same broth, or sofrit pagès, a hearty country dish of meats and potatoes that suits a cooler night. Inland villages such as Sant Joan and Santa Gertrudis have simple restaurants where the menu changes with the season, and booking ahead is wise even outside August.
Night options that do not involve a superclub
Not everyone comes to Ibiza for the clubs. The harbour area of Ibiza Town has quieter bars, live music on some nights and a casino near the marina for those who enjoy a round of roulette or blackjack on holiday. Visitors from Central Europe often arrive already familiar with casino games from home; Hungarian travellers, for example, sometimes check online kaszinó vélemények in their own language before they travel, simply to understand table rules and limits. Casinos are open to adults only (18+), and the same advice applies on holiday as at home: decide on a budget before you go in and play responsibly.
Others prefer a sunset at Cala Comte or the cliffs near Es Vedrà when the weather clears at the last minute, which it often does.
Plan tomorrow while you wait
A rainy evening is also the right time to look ahead. Check the wind direction for the next day, because on Ibiza it decides which coast is calm: if the wind blows from the north, beaches on the south and west sides are usually sheltered, and vice versa. Pack water, shoes for the rocky paths and a snorkel, and set off early. The hidden beaches reward the people who arrive before ten, and after a quiet night in town, you will be ready for the hike.
